Ushguli in Georgia – mountain villages of Upper Svaneti on the UNESCO list (2100 m above sea level)
Ushguli (Ushguli) is a real gem of Georgia, located at the end of the world, and certainly of Europe! This complex of several small settlements is considered the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe. Although it is actually the Caucasus, i.e. the border between Europe and Asia! Due to its unique character and the accumulation of unusual Gothic towers, Ushguli has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.
Location and access to Ushguli
Ushguli is located at an altitude of 2100–2200 m above sea level, in the Upper Svaneti region in the north-west of the country. It lies at the foot of Georgia's highest peak, Szchary (5193 m above sea level). We even managed to see her glacier up close! And the Inguri River (Enguri) flows through these villages.
Road from Mestia to Ushguli
Ushguli is separated from Mestia by nearly 50 km of asphalt and gravel, mountainous road. The rental car ride takes about 2 hours, and you should also take into account that there are beautiful views along the way and you can stop several times, e.g. at the Tower of Love.
Remember that the road is sometimes difficult and impassable in winter due to snow. The best times are late spring, summer and early autumn. Even during this period, sometimes boulders or rushing streams block the road and further driving is impossible. A 4x4 drive will come in handy.
From Mestia, you can also get to Ushguli by marshrutka (state bus). Rides aren't expensive. From Kutaisi or Tbilisi, you should first reach Mestia (by bus, plane or rented car), and then change to local transport to Ushguli. Recently, trekking from Mestia to Ushguli, which lasts for several days, has also become fashionable.
Ushguli Experiences
The very location of Ushguli is an attraction in itself and determines the charm of this place. Villages are lost amid the mighty peaks of the Caucasus, and stunning landscapes await at every turn. But in addition, this place offers an amazing, although already disappearing, heritage in the form of Gothic towers, a valuable and old church and a separate culture. Explore Ushguli's top attractions!
Swanska defense towers, the so-called koshki
The towers of Swan are very characteristic stone towers, which do not occur in other regions. They are a symbol of Svaneti and one of the most important attractions of Ushguli. There are quite a few of them here! They began to form at the beginning of our era, but those preserved to this day date from the 9th-13th centuries. They are part of the former fortifications of villages and are perfectly inscribed in the landscape of the valley.
They were built by the Georgian aristocracy, one family could have several or even a dozen of them. They served as an apartment, a place of defense or warehouses. Typical towers are about 25 meters high and narrow, on a square plan. They consist of 4-6 floors, and individual levels are climbed with ladders so that it is easy to cut off from the enemy. Formerly, the entrances to them were located only on the first floor, to which only a ladder led. Some koshki (baskets), because this is how they are called, have been preserved in very good condition, and one can even be visited in Ushguli.
Lamaria Church in Ushguli
St. George's Church (Lamaria) is a small and very atmospheric medieval church. The monument sits on a green hill at the end of the village and is distinguished by a very picturesque location and extremely simple architecture. It is surrounded by graves and ruins of former buildings. The interior is enchanted by medieval frescoes. The warmth of lighted candles beats from here.
Note: inside, women should wear a headscarf and both women and men should wear a hip scarf if you have short shorts or tight trousers. You do not have to have your own headscarf, they were at the entrance in every church in Georgia.
Chazhashi Museum
In one of the villages, it is worth visiting the museum of local heritage and crafts.
The traditional architecture of Upper Svaneti in Ushguli
On the one hand, the stone buildings lie next to totally makeshift structures, even leaning and inconsistent with the plumb line. It makes a striking impression, but it is also a testimony to poverty in these areas. Upper Svaneti is a wonderful heritage that is slowly disappearing with the older generation of Georgians. At one time, young people left here without seeing any prospects. Currently, the situation is changing a bit, because tourism is born here and it can save the memory of this place. May Ushguli retain its incredible character and unique charm!
Shkhara, Georgia's highest peak. Offroad and trekking to the Shchara glacier
Szchara is the highest peak in Georgia, at 5,193 m above sea level. It rises beautifully above Ushguli, but it is worth taking a closer look. We from the Lamaria Orthodox Church set off on a trail 9 km to the very head of the glacier. There is no road here, but 4x4 cars will do. We drove 7 km to the last car park. The last 2 km is quite quiet trekking with breathtaking views. The head of the Shkhar glacier is located at an altitude of 2557 m above sea level. This is not much more than our Rysy! Be careful around the glacier and don't get too close to the ice monster. There are a lot of boulders and stones stuck here, which easily and often fall into the dock, posing a threat to tourists. A stream flows from under the glacier.
Mountain horseback riding tours
Local farms organize horse rides in the surrounding valleys and mountain trails.
Practical information
Food & Restaurants
There are small restaurants and homemade kitchens in the villages. Try local pastries, soups, and meat dishes. The traditional dish of the Swans is kubdari, a round cake similar to khachapuri imeruli, but in the case of kubdari, the main ingredient of the stuffing is chopped meat. We really liked this dish.
The icing on the trekking cake was our visit to CAFE-LEMI in Ushguli. This is an inconspicuous pub, like many in Georgia, but here we were charmed by a hammock with a wonderful view of the mountains. We tried here not only kubdari, but also other dishes served from the heart. Good and cheap!
Accommodations
More and more guesthouses offer accommodation in this place. You can stay overnight or visit Ushguli as a day trip from Mestia. We did just that because we slept at the Mamuka Chartolani Guesthouse in Mestia.
Here you will find a wide selection of accommodations. By booking your stay on Booking.com through our link, you support the development of our blog — and we thank you in advance! It helps us reach many interesting places that we later love to show you and share our experiences and information with you.
How to get along in Svaneti?
This is a region where a lot of older people live. Apart from Georgian, which is completely incomprehensible to the average Pole, like their alphabet, they speak mostly Russian. Unfortunately, English is quite foreign to them. While in larger cities and young people know English more or less, it is difficult in Ushguli. A translator who can even cope with the Georgian alphabet helps.
When to go to Ushguli?
The best season on Ushguli is from June to September. Then the roads should be passable, and the weather is conducive to hiking. Remember, however, that these are high mountains, which is why it is cooler than in other parts of Georgia, the mornings and evenings will certainly be cool, and it is also very easy to change the weather here. And these can be drastic changes. We were here in mid-June and we encountered a lot of rain in Svaneti, although the weather was unstable under the Shkhar glacier.
Nevertheless, I highly recommend you, because Ushguli is a real gem of Georgia. A place where time stood still many years ago, and the raw beauty of the Caucasus meets the living, Svanish tradition. It is an ideal destination for lovers of nature, mountain hikes and authentic culture.
Rent a car
Exploring becomes much easier when you have your own means of transport. You don’t have to worry about buses or taxis, and you can plan each day your way. The search box below will help you find the right car – right where your journey begins.
What's worth seeing in the area?
If you are looking for more ideas for interesting places to visit, we have it for you some options in the area. There are several attractions within a radius of 100 kilometers, that are worth adding to your travel plan.
- Georgian cuisine, distance: 0.1 km
- Svaneti in Georgia, distance: 27.5 km
- Georgia, distance: 92.2 km
