Svaneti in Georgia. Attractions: Cities, Ushguli and Shchara glacier. Mountain paradise!

Svaneti is a kind of dying heritage that is worth saving! Located on the northwestern outskirts of Georgia, it is a region that impresses not only with its majestic landscapes, but also with its unique culture and history. Cut off from the rest of the country by the mighty ranges of the Caucasus, it has retained its distinctiveness and authenticity for centuries, which today attracts travelers from all over the world.

Top attractions of Svaneti in Georgia

Over 100 km of an uncertain road, narrow, stretching along high rock slopes, above the abysses. Sometimes it happens that its fragments have been washed away, a stream flows through it, and even fragments have fallen down into the riverbed. Such a trail leads to the attractions of Upper Svaneti. However, it is worth taking this route to get to know the dying world, with gothic towers, hospitable Swans and beautiful mountain landscapes. See the most beautiful attractions of Svaneti!

Cities and baskets (koshki)

Mestia is the heart of the region and a great starting point for exploring the local culture of this region of Georgia. We spent 2 nights here, thanks to which we could explore the area. In the city, you can visit the ethnographic museum, but above all, I recommend seeing the numerous gothic towers, the so-called baskets. They are a symbol of the region, rising in almost every settlement, creating a characteristic landscape against the background of mountains. The peaks of the Caucasus. They are narrow, stone towers, with several floors. Some of them are open to the public. In Mestia, you can definitely visit 2 of them. They were built by the Georgian aristocracy, from the beginning of our era, the present ones date from the 9th-13th centuries. 

Machub Tower in Mestia

We visited the Machub tower from the 12th century in Mestia. Admission costs 10 lari (about PLN 13 per person). At the lowest level, you will see the host throne that stood in each tower, as well as the equipment formerly used by the swans. To this day, some are used, for example, the characteristic horns from which chacha is drunk, the famous Georgian alcohol, accounting for about 40-50% of alcohol. It is sharp, but without it there will be no Georgian feast. With any luck, you will be offered it here.

Only ladders will take you to the upper floors. The towers are narrow, and on the way you will see a small church, or rather an altar, and at the very top there are nice views from the windows. You can also open the roof hatch from the ladder and admire the wide area from there. It is difficult to talk about the tightness of the structure. Anyway, the place has a special atmosphere and I highly recommend it!

The Tower of Love near Mestia

Another tower open to tourists can be found along the route from Mestia to Ushguli. There is an interesting legend associated with it, namely, lovers, a girl and a boy who fell in love with each other once sat on a stone under it. Once, the boy went hunting and probably died on it, because he did not come back. The girl was waiting for him on the stone every day, because she did not believe in his death. Unfortunately, he hadn't come back for years, and she hadn't married, still hoping. The family took pity on her and erected this tower so that the girl could take refuge in it. Today it is called the tower of love.

Ushguli (Ushguli) with the Lamaria Orthodox Church

Ushguli is considered the highest settlement in Europe, permanently inhabited. It is located at an altitude of 2100 m above sea level and in fact it is contractual that it is located in Europe, because it is located in the Caucasus, which is the border between Europe and Asia. It is entirely inscribed on the UNESCO list, with the Lamaria Orthodox Church and a view of Szarcha, Georgia's highest peak with an altitude of 5193 m above sea level.

Lamaria Orthodox Church

The Church of Our Lady of Ushguli, popularly called the Lamaria Church, is a medieval Georgian Orthodox church. It rises slightly above the entire settlement and from the outside it does not resemble a church, but rather another Svanec tower. Inside, however, although it is tiny, it is also amazing. With painted frescoes from the Middle Ages, full of burning candles. Thin, so characteristic of Orthodoxy.

Its origins date back to the ninth century, but this was stated more on the basis of style features, because the records have not been preserved. According to local legends, this temple was built on the site of an ancient pagan cult. Over time, the pagan goddess turned into the Mother of God, and thus paganism was supplanted by Christianity. In the region, you will also find dozens of other stone churches and chapels, often hidden among the mountain slopes.

Szchara Glacier – spectacular trail-marked trekking

Behind Lamaria, the settlement actually ends and the natural world of the Caucasus opens up. From here, it is 9 km to the head of the Shkhara Glacier, Georgia's highest peak. You can go trekking here. We decided to drive (4x4) to the last car park. Of course, there is no asphalt road. It is 7 km of offroad, on this section there are stones, mud, even flowing streams. But there is no shortage of daredevils, we also succeeded. In the parking lot, you can eat, drink and use the toilets. So-called skiers, many of them in Georgia.

The last 2 km is trekking, because you can't do it otherwise than on foot. It is a paradise for mountain hikers. The trail is marked, it is not difficult, it winds slightly uphill, on stones. In some places it is wet. The head of the glacier is at an altitude of 2557 m above sea level. This was probably the highest point we have ever stood on, slightly higher than our highest Rysy. The weather was whimsical, but in the end the sun won and we saw beautiful views. The green of the valley, the blue of the stream and the white of the snow-covered Szchara. Only the very forehead of the glacier was bureaus, covered with a huge amount of stones and boulders. Therefore, do not get too close, because they are in constant motion and every now and then they fall with impetus.

In the area, you can also walk to the Chalaadi Glacier, which was originally planned. But Shchara summoned us more and it  was hard to resist her! We rented a car from Georgia with us crazy people. We recommend good contact and great hospitality, we also slept with them in Gori.

Traditional Svaneti cuisine. Kubdari and Svaneti salt. Where to eat in Svaneti?

Svaneti's cuisine, although based on simple ingredients, is extremely aromatic and filling. The most famous, traditional dish of the region is kubdari. It is a cake with meat (beef or pork), onion, garlic and characteristic Svanec salt, which gives the dish a unique taste. We liked kubdari very much and we tasted it in several places, including Cafe-Lemi in Ushguli or Vichnashi in the center of Mestia.

Of course, there are also classic Georgian specialties, such as magnificent chinkali dumplings or the famous khachapuri, which are not only tasty but also affordable in local restaurants (main dishes for 20 lari, or about PLN 27). I also recommend soups that usually start with 10 lari, such as chczo.

The aforementioned Vichnashi served very good cuisine, we recommend it, but Cafe-Lemi was even more memorable, with a hammock and a wonderful view of the Caucasus peaks. If you are looking for a nice decor in Georgian premises, you may be disappointed, while the kitchen is simple, tasty and served with a heart on your plate. In the future, I would avoid dishes consisting only of pieces of meat in sauce, because they are usually quite hard. Salads, on the other hand, are bought separately and usually constitute a large portion. We liked kubdari and khachapuri Adjara the most, which is in the shape of a boat, with cheese and egg yolk.

In addition, you will get to know Georgian hospitality, which manifests itself in local sharing, often homely wine, as well as chacha, a strong alcohol that cannot be missed at any Georgian feast. It has about 50% alcohol, is transparent and is often prepared by Georgians themselves.

Swan culture and traditions

The people of Svaneti, or Svans, speak their own language, svan. It is recognized by Georgia as a dialect and at the same time it is one of the most archaic languages. Unfortunately, threatened with extinction, their traditions and customs, passed down from generation to generation for centuries, have survived thanks to the isolation of the region. To this day, while visiting the towers, you can see traditional interiors, decorated with wooden carvings and sacred symbols. Older residents regret that the towers are at risk of collapsing, and traditions are disappearing as young people leave the difficult to live Svaneti. Tourism comes to the rescue. More and more travelers from all over the world come here and hear about this beautiful land. Maybe you can get here and help save this legacy!

And getting to Svaneti is an adventure in itself. Narrow, winding roads, frequent landslides and ubiquitous cows or horses on the route make the journey require patience and determination. The prize is a wonderful, unique world, which is in vain to look for in other corners of the globe!

Svaneti: the mountainous landscape of the Caucasus with Shara, Georgia's highest peak

Svaneti is a land of high, snowy peaks, deep, picturesque valleys, green meadows and picturesque waterfalls. It is here that Shchara, Georgia's highest peak (5,193 m above sea level), rises, the third highest in the entire Caucasus. It overlooks the settlements that seem to be suspended between Europe and Asia. The region is also famous for its beautiful glaciers, which are led by demanding but extremely picturesque hiking trails.

UNESCO architecture and heritage

The most characteristic symbol of Svaneti are the medieval defensive towers, the so-called koshki. These unique buildings, built mainly between the 9th and 13th centuries, served both as houses and fortifications protecting the inhabitants from invasions. Villages such as Ushguli or Mestia, with dozens of stone towers, have been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a unique example of human harmony with the mountain environment. In Ushguli itself, the highest permanently inhabited settlement in Europe (2100 m above sea level), more than 200 towers, churches and castles have been preserved, and the panorama of Szchar is breathtaking. On the way to it, you will meet many other settlements and towns, where even nicer towers blend in with the surrounding nature.

Svaneti is a place where time passes more slowly, tradition still lives on, and nature delights at every turn. It is the perfect destination for those looking for authentic experiences, wildlife and an encounter with living history. We highly recommend a trip to Svaneti.

Where to sleep in Svaneti?

We spent 2 nights in Mestia, at the Mamuka Chartolani Guesthouse. We were in a group of friends and had 3 double rooms, each with its own bathroom, a shared lounge and a small kitchen, with modest equipment. A satisfactory level of rooms and bathrooms, a good location close to shops and easy walking distance to the centre of Mestia. We can recommend it with a clear conscience.

Here you will find a wide selection of accommodations. By booking your stay on Booking.com through our link, you support the development of our blog — and we thank you in advance! It helps us reach many interesting places that we later love to show you and share our experiences and information with you.

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What's worth seeing in the area?

You don't have to travel far to find more interesting places. Within a radius of 100 kilometers, there are many attractions waiting for you that will certainly enrich your stay Your trip with additional memories.

• Ushguli in Georgia, distance: 27.5  km
• Georgian cuisine, distance: 27.6  km
• Georgia, distance: 97.4  km