Ostrów Tumski in Wrocław. The oldest part of the city. Cathedral, Tumski Bridge, lanterns and lighthouse keeper

Ostrów Tumski we Wrocławiu
Miniaturowa mapa z zaznaczeniem

Ostrów Tumski with the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist and other Gothic and even Romanesque temples is the heart of Wrocław. It is the oldest inhabited part of the city with 1000 years of history. It is a wonderful ensemble of sacred architecture on a European scale. This place impresses! Not only with its wonderful architecture, but also with its tranquility. It is a great place to walk and discover a curiosity, because it is the only place in Poland where the lighthouse keeper lights and extinguishes gas lanterns every day.

Tumski Bridge to an island that is no longer an island

Ostrów Tumski we Wrocławiu

The Tumski Bridge is also called the Bridge of Lovers. Why? Couples in love hung padlocks here. However, there were so many of them that it threatened the construction of this building. Therefore, during the last renovation, the padlocks were moved, and here only a few of them remained.
The renovation took place in 2019. Then the authorities decided to remove the padlocks. It was a lot of work, because their total weight was 17 tons! No wonder they were worried about the condition of the bridge. Apparently, they also did it for the lovers themselves out of fear that their feeling locked in a padlock could rust like themselves. The bridge is created by an impressive structure painted green. This is the best way to enter Ostrów.

Most Tumski

Cathedral on Ostrów Tumski in Wrocław

The pearl of Ostrów Tumski is, of course, the Gothic Cathedral of St. John the Baptist in Wrocław, which is also the patron saint of the city. His image as a head on a plate can be seen in various parts of the city, not only on the cathedral Island, but also, for example, on the Old Town Hall on the Market Square or even in the five-pole coat of arms of the city! The cathedral in Wrocław dates back to the 12th century, but today its oldest part is the chancel dating from the 13th century. The history of this temple is long and it has always been a refuge and a trace of Polishness in this Polish, Czech, Austrian, Prussian and German city! 

The Wrocław Cathedral is open to the faithful and tourists from morning to evening, and after dark it is fantastically illuminated. The oldest part of the building is the presbytery, while the Baroque chapel of St. Elizabeth is considered the most magnificent in Poland. The cathedral tower is also available. Both towers rise to a height of 98 meters. An interesting fact is that in the sacristy there is an altar under which the mortal remains of Bishop Nankier are deposited. His beatification process began in 1719.

Ostrów Tumski we Wrocławiu
Katedra Św. Jana Chrzciciela we Wrocławiu
Ostrów Tumski we Wrocławiu
Ostrów Tumski we Wrocławiu

 

Festung Breslau or Wrocław Fortress

The cathedral on Ostrów Tumski would have been almost gone, because during the war on Ostrów, as well as throughout Wrocław, dramatic fights flared up, much stronger than in the area and the cathedral, just as Wrocław was destroyed in about 70%. Worst of all, great damage was done in April and May 1945, after the surrender of Berlin. This is because Wrocław at the end of World War II became Festung Breslau, or Wrocław Fortress. Hitler's plan was to defend or destroy Wrocław at all costs. So when the attack of Soviet troops began, the Germans blew up the most valuable parts of the city. It became obvious that not only the siege, but also the defense of Festung Breslau would not leave the proverbial stone on the stone in Wrocław. Today at the Cathedral you will see photos of what it looked like after the liberation. There was practically nothing to save, but the Polish state decided to rebuild the ruined temple as one of the few souvenirs of the Polish history of this city. Today it is a pearl among Polish Gothic religious monuments, with towers 100 meters high!

Ostrów Tumski we Wrocławiu
Ostrów Tumski we Wrocławiu
Ostrów Tumski we Wrocławiu
Katedra Św. Jana Chrzciciela we Wrocławiu

Other monuments on the island. The oldest church of the city and the church in the church

As befits the Church Island, Wrocław's Ostrów Tumski boasts many churches. And this is old, although it is not a large space.

Church of St. Giles - the oldest preserved building in Wrocław

Among the sacral monuments, the oldest church in Ostrów deserves attention, and thus the oldest preserved building in Wrocław. This is the church of St. Giles from 1220. It is not always possible to enter its interior, but when you have the opportunity, I recommend seeing the austere interior of this small temple with a Romanesque apse. Right next to it is the Kluskowa Gate, which took its name from the noodle at the top, which is associated with the legend I write about below.

Kościół św. Idziego z 1220 roku

Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross or 2 gothic churches in one!

The real flavor is the Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross, whichactually hides two Gothic temples. From the collegiate church, you descend to a separate historic church of St. Bartholomew. This is a real one-of-a-kind among Polish temples! 

In front of the magnificent collegiate church stands a Baroque column, which is quite a monument. And here you can find a unique thing, because among the figurines of angels with curls you will see the heads of two bald angels. Where did they come from? The apprentice of the master, whose child was just born, imagined an angel in this way and sculpted it in this way. You will ask where the second bald angel came from, and rightly so. This is already the master's work, because, although surprised, he had to maintain symmetry in the Baroque sculpture and made a second angel without a knot.

In addition, on Ostrów there is the Archdiocesan Museum with the famous Henryków Book, where the first sentence is written in Polish. The Botanical Garden and the amazing Natural Museum are also magnificent. You will also find the church of St. Martin here.

Gas lanterns and Wrocław lighthouse keeper

Kolegiata Św. Krzyża

An interesting fact is that Ostrów Tumski in Wrocław is illuminated with gas lanterns. Every day, the local lighthouse keeper walks the streets of this charming island (today it is no longer an island) and lights them in the evening, and extinguishes them in the morning. Illuminated by these lanterns, Ostrów Tumski makes an amazing impression. It looks magical, completely different from today's white LED lighting. It is worth seeing such Ostrów Tumski at least once! Every month, the lanterns are lit at a different time, depending on the time of nightfall. It is the only place in Poland where gas lamps are lit every day by a lighthouse keeper. You can still find gas lanterns in Warsaw, e.g. on Płatnicza Street, but they light up automatically there.

Ostrów i latarnie

History of Ostrów Tumski

In pagan times, Ślężana lived on Ostrów Tumski. Later, the Piast dynasty resided in the stronghold, and then Ostrów became the center of ecclesiastical power. Already in the 9th century, the first buildings were built here. It was an island then. Later, a castle was built in the prince's stronghold on Ostrów Tumski, which was demolished around the 15th century. 

The island was small and has been under the care of the clergy since the 14th century. An interesting thing was the obligation to remove the headgear, also from the royal temples, when entering the Tumski Bridge. Since the 19th century, when the last branch of the Oder was buried, Ostrów has become an island in name only.

Ostrów Tumski we Wrocławiu

Where did the name Ostrów Tumski come from?

Ostrów Tumski is nothing more than the Church Island. Ostrów is an island in Old Polish. Cathedrals, on the other hand, used to be called tumas. You will also find Ostrów Tumski in Poznań.

Legend of dumpling about a gate with dumpling

Legend has it that there used to be a marriage here. The wife cooked her husband delicious noodles, which he loved. Unfortunately, one day the wife ran out, and the husband missed both her and those dumplings very much. It happened romantically that the wife appeared to her husband in a dream one night and gave him a pot full of noodles. She promised that if he ate them every day, but left one noodle at the bottom, then every day this pot would fill up again. Well, unfortunately, the peasant was greedy, he wanted to eat all the noodles, but the last one escaped to the top of the gate and unfortunately the pot did not fill.

Ostrów Tumski we Wrocławiu z Bramą Kluskową

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Practical information

Ostrów Tumski
Plac Katedralny 18, Wrocław
Open all year round, 24 hours
Admission to the area of Ostrów Tumski is free of charge
Cathedral 10.00-17.00
Admission to the cathedral is free of charge, only: scenic routes, missionary exhibition and baroque chapels with the main altar of St. John the Baptist of the Bishop Jerin Foundation
Current opening hours and ticket price list: https://katedra.wroclaw.pl/zwiedzanie/

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What's worth seeing in the area?

You don't have to travel far to find more interesting places. Within a radius of 100 kilometers, there are many attractions waiting for you that will certainly enrich your stay Your trip with additional memories.

Avatar użytkownika Anna Piernikarczyk
 

Hi! My name is Anna Piernikarczyk. We have been blogging and wandering around Poland since 2005. We bring back a lot of wonderful memories and experiences from family trips, which I am happy to share with you. Today it is more than just a passion, Our mission is to debunk the myth "You praise other people's things, but you don't know your own"!

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